A Long (sorry) Ferry Rant

In less than 3 weeks we will know whether the Whatcom Chief, our brave little ferry, will be taking us on an hour long journey through dangerous waters when we go to the mainland.  For more than 100 years it has been making a 5 minute trip across Hales Passage to the Lummi Reservation.  Now the tribe says that must stop.  Today the ferry made a trial run on the hour long voyage to Fairhaven, to try docking there, “weather permitting.”

Weather permitted.  The sun shone, the sky was blue , the water lay calm and still.  The ferry is back now, chugging back and forth across Hales Passage.

Everyone who lives here knows that it will be devastating to this small island if we no longer have easy access to the mainland.  People are laying in food supplies, those with children in school are contemplating renting an apartments in town so their kids can keep going to school.  (We have an elementary school on the island, but beyond that kids are bussed to the mainland.)  Jerry and I are thinking that we may have to get a condo or a house in town for use when we have medical appointments or other necessary in town obligations.  This we could do, but it would use up all our discretionary spending money and limit out lives a lot.  We would probably have to sell the house in Alaska.

I find this situation sad in a number of ways.  It isn’t just that I don’t like having my peaceful old age disrupted with sudden, unexpected difficulties.  That happens to people of all ages, and you just do the best you can to get on with it.  I wouldn’t mind so much if was because of some natural occurrence.  People rush to aid each other in those cases.

The population of Lummi Island is only a little over 1000.  I feel, as do lot of others, that we are abandoned by our government.  The county is showing little interest in helping us.  No information is forthcoming on the so-called “negotiations” that may or may not be taking place with the tribe.  I think the “trial run” to Fairhaven is silly.  Sending the ferry to Fairhaven is not a viable solution.  It would almost surely, for one thing, triple the fare, which is presently about $10.  There is talk of daily commuters who work in Bellingham riding as passengers and keeping a car on the other side, but that would cost $6 per day parking. And it would add 2 hours or more (weather permitting) to their commuting time.

Senators and Representatives in Washington have been contacted, and have shown no interest at all in our problem.

It makes me even sadder to think that it is my neighbors on the reservation who have created this problem for me and the other inhabitants of the island.  I have always felt sympathy for the Lummis.  They were terribly treated by the settlers who began to move into this land 200 years ago.  They were forbidden to speak their own language, and their culture was systematically destroyed.  They are trying now to recover some of that lost culture but they still bear the scars of the old persecution.  However, these wrongs will not be redressed by making life difficult for their neighbors and friends across the water.  It will be much more likely to fan the flame of the racism that surely lingers still.

I wish that we on the island had established closer ties to the Lummi Nation in the past.  Everyone benefits from mutual interaction, and we have a lot to learn from each other.  I want to know about how the first humans lived in this place that is home to us and to the Lummis.  My neighbor, Mike, showed me a book about the history of the Coastal Salish people (Exploring Coast Salish Prehistory, by Julie K Stein).  They arrived here just as the last ice receded, about 10,000 years ago.  When they first arrived the ice had so recently melted that there were not even any shell fish to be had.  Today’s Lummis are descended from those people, who learned to survive and whose culture evolved here on the San Juan Archipelago.

It makes me sad that an island group has hired a lawyer and a public relations firm to represent us.  I wish we hadn’t had to do this.  Our elected government should represent both us and the Lummis, and solve this problem to the benefit of both groups.  The retainer for the lawyer, before he opened a book or talked to anyone, was $20,000.  That was so he would give us an opinion.  The money has been paid.  There is as yet no opinion, and it is now said that legal fees may go over $100,000.  Why?  What is the lawyer going to do?  The public relations person is collecting letters from islanders about what the ferry means to them.  What is she doing with these letters?  I have seen little in the way of a public relations blitz.

I am sure that there is a solution.  I am sure that we are not without bargaining points.  It looks as though, absent any real diligence or interest on the part of the County, the State or the Federal Government, we will have to do this ourselves.  Our government doesn’t care.  That makes me sad.

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Below is an excerpt from an on line law reference.  I think it shows clearly that if the Government wanted to act, it could do so.

Although Native Americans have been held to have both inherent rights and rights guaranteed, either explicitly or implicitly, by treaties with the federal government, the government retains the ultimate power and authority to either abrogate or protect Native American rights. This power stems from several legal sources. One is the power that the Constitution gives to Congress to make regulations governing the territory belonging to the United States (Art. IV, Sec. 3, Cl. 2), and another is the president’s constitutional power to make treaties (Art. II, Sec. 2, Cl. 2). A more commonly cited source of federal power over Native American affairs is the COMMERCE CLAUSE of the U.S. Constitution, which provides that “Congress shall have the Power … to regulate Commerce with foreign Nations, and among the several States, and with the Indian Tribes” (Art. I, Sec. 8, Cl. 3). This clause has resulted in what is known as Congress’s “plenary power” over Indian affairs, which means that Congress has the ultimate right to pass legislation governing Native Americans, even when that legislation conflicts with or abrogates Indian treaties. The most well-known case supporting this congressional right is Lone Wolf v. Hitchcock, 187 U.S. 553, 23 S. Ct. 216, 47 L. Ed. 299 (1903), in which Congress broke a treaty provision that had guaranteed that no more cessions of land would be made without the consent of three-fourths of the adult males from the Kiowa and Comanche tribes. In justifying this abrogation, Justice EDWARD D. WHITE declared that when “treaties were entered into between the United States and a tribe of Indians it was never doubted that the power to abrogate existed in Congress, and that in a contingency such power might be availed of from considerations of governmental policy.”

Posted in Day to day, Island life | Tagged , , , , | 15 Comments

Cats, specifically, black ones

There is at this time nothing new on the ferry, except that the county put out a press release saying that on the 26 th of this month the ferry and crew will practice docking in Fairhaven, a voyage of over an hour through notoriously rough water.  On such a trip it could only carry 10 cars (in contrast to over 20 on its present 5 minute run to Gooseberry Point.)  The press release said this will happen “weather permitting.”

The warning “weather permitting” has implications for things like getting children to school, medical emergencies, power failures (which are frequent on the island) fuel deliveries, garbage removal, and so on.

Since I have nothing new on the ferry I thought of writing about recent world news:  the earthquake in Haiti, the election in Massachusetts, the Supreme Court ruling on corporate campaign spending.  But those things are so depressing to think about that when I finish I might have to plunge off the end of the ferry dock into the icy waters of Hales Passage.  Best not risk it.

So instead I am reminiscing about cats, especially black cats.

I have had a cat or cats all of my life, and I have had one or more black cats for about 25 years.   When I returned to the US from Germany in the 70’s I got a cat from the pound, not black, but striped (wild type).  I called her Maxine, after Max Planck, because in Germany I worked for the Max Planck Institute.  When I moved to Atlanta Maxine moved with me.  Soon my new husband and I got another cat, this time black with white paws, white paws with a number of extra toes (polydactyly.)  This cat we named Widetrack.  Maxine and Widetrack coexisted, though Maxine never really took to Widetrack.  He was rambunctious and often caused her to get huffy.  Widetrack died young, and my husband, who really loved him, cried.

About 1985 I acquired an all black cat.  I called her Blanch.  This was the most engaging cat I have ever had.  Maxine adored her.  They would lie lazily together, licking and nuzzling each other.  Blanche liked to play fetch.  Her favorite toy was a ball of aluminum foil which I would throw for her and she would run after, pounce on, and trot back to drop it at my feet so I would throw it again.  She also like to play tug of war with a bit of string.

Blanche was a good hunter.  From time to time I would see her with a squirrel or chipmunk in her mouth.  She didn’t bring them in; she ate them.  I suppose that is what killed her.  I think she got one that had been poisoned.

I mourned Blanch for a long time.  We moved to a house in the woods and one day in mid winter I found a tiny black kitten at the end of my driveway.  I have no idea how it got there; I suppose someone abandoned it.

It took me a week to catch it.  I worried about it because it was bitterly cold.  I put food out for it several times a day, and in the end got close enough to grab it.  I thought she was tiny because she was very young, but she hardly grew.   She never got a real name, but was always called Little Black.  Maxine hated Little Black from the beginning.  By this time Maxine was getting on in years.  I guess she was about 14.  The cats pretty much lived in our bedroom, which occupied the top floor of a 3 level house.  It was a big room with a balcony porch.

Maxine liked to spend her days on the balcony.  At first I put food there for her, but had to stop when it began attracting raccoons.  There were a lot of raccoons in those woods.  Our next door neighbor, the wife of a federal judge, used to feed them.  She thought they didn’t look sufficiently healthy so she started mixing worm medicine with the food she gave them.  They grew to be muscular and sleek, their fur was bushy and their eyes bright.

Every night a little cat ritual took place when I let Maxine in from the balcony (to avoid confrontations with raccoons.)  Little Black, who mostly stayed inside, would watch for signs that I was about to open the door for Maxine.  Then she would crouch in the corner behind the door, ready to pounce.  When I opened the door Maxine would hesitate nervously, then make a little dash for the inside.  Little Black always nailed her, and a little hissy cat spat would follow.

Maxine died at 17.  When we moved out west Little Black went with us.  She was so traumatized by the airplane trip that after we arrived at our new house she hid under the bed and stayed for a month.  I put a litter box and food for her there.  After about a week she started coming out at night and getting on our bed, but as soon as day broke she went back under.

Little black was the smallest adult cat I have ever seen.  When she was 10 years old people still asked me if she was a kitten.  She was a sweet pet, and got on well with our dog, a little white mutt named Zute.  One day she was sleeping curled up on my bed.  When I tried to pick her up I found she was dead.

I wanted to have a little black cat.  My lawyer daughter had taken in a feral cat, which had kittens despite my offer to pay for the cat to be spayed.  Two of the kittens were black.  Their hair was rather long, but in other ways they seemed like Little Black.  So I took both, thinking that if they were brought up together they would like each other.  At first they played, as kittens will, but as they grew – and grew – and grew – they became increasingly hostile to each other.   Ah, yes, their names:  Abelard and Heloise.  When I was married to a philosophy professor we were in the habit of naming our numerous pets after philosophers, and I always intended to get around to Abelard and Heloise.

Well, they grew.  They became enormous.  And their long fur made them look even bigger.  They were the biggest cats I have ever owned.  And they fought.

Abelard

Abelard

When they were kittens I took them to the vet to get their shots and be neutered. He advised me to keep them indoors.  I lived in suburbia at that time, and so I kept them in.  When I moved to a tiny house in the woods on the island keeping them inside was much more difficult, and they constantly yearned to be out.  One day a friend said to me, “Open the door, Anne, and let them out.”

Their personalities were quite different.  Abelard was feisty and playful and smart.  Some of my friends were scared of him.  Heloise was docile and timid.  Both of them were good hunters despite not being outside a house until they were 4 years old.

Heloise

Heloise

As they matured Abelard became a roamer, and spent half the night out tom catting (though he had no more equipment than his namesake), while Heloise just grew lazy and too fat to jump on anything higher than the bed.  Abelard usually came in through the window of my loft bedroom at about 2:30 or 3 in the morning.  He patrolled the rooftops.  He died about 4 years ago.  He had had several undiagnosable illnesses (“fever of unknown origin” according to the gigantic vet bill.)  Although he recovered, I never thought he looked really well again.  He disappeared when I was in England to the dismay of the cat sitter.  I never saw him again.

Heloise is still with me.  She is fat, but still able to jump on the bed.  I sleep sandwiched between her and Jerry.  There is not much room in the bed for me.

Posted in Island life, Memoir | Tagged , | 9 Comments

It’s the ferry, stupid

Those of you who don’t live on Lummi Island, the center of the universe, may believe that there are important news items to think about: things like health care, earthquakes, unemployment, or even the fact that the space station toilet is stopped up (astronaut pee contains a lot of calcium) or that an 8 year old kid named Mikey is on the no fly list (he has the same name as a terrorist).

We on this important island (population about 1000 in winter, growing to 3000 in summer), however, know that what actually matters in the public realm is the ferry.

Many people (that is, many among the select group who have ever heard of Lummi Island) think that the island is part of the Lummi Indian Reservation.  It isn’t.  The ferry crosses Hales Passage, a five minute run, and docks on the mainland at Gooseberry Point which is in the Lummi Nation.  In order to get to Bellingham one has to pass through about 10 miles of reservation land.

Like many others, I like passing through the reservation.  There is another culture to learn about, another tight-knit community to compare with the outside, and, along the shore, some beautiful sights of fishing eagles and gulls, islands, sand bars and mountain views.

A ferry has been operating across Hales Passage for more than 100 years.  At first it was operated by the owners of a salmon cannery (no longer in existence) located here on the island which employed thousands of people, many Chinese.  In 1924 the ferry and the route became county property.  The present ferry, the steel, double-ended dual diesel powered Whatcom Chief, was built in 1962.

The ferry at night

The ferry at night

I love the Whatcom Chief.  When I first moved to the island, 10 years ago, I was 67 years old and newly divorced.  My divorce was polite, but all divorces are stressful.  I felt terrible about leaving the man I had been married to for 20 years, a nice, smart man, but one who had an intractable alcohol problem.  Whenever I pulled my car into the ferry queue after a day in Bellingham taking care of my mother or my ex-husband (both often had medical issues) or doing errands, the sight of the Whatcom Chief meant that I was about to leave my troubles behind.

Five minutes would take me to a slower, quieter world: a world of woods and fields, of beaches and sunsets, of cows and llamas and sheep.  A world of crab pots and organic gardens and parties.  A world where most mornings I walked down the hill to the coffee shop called “Well, Latte Dah!” next to the only island store, and while drinking my latte worked a crossword puzzle with my friend Gwen, who owned the coffee business.

I got to know the hardworking folk who run the ferry.  Many of them are my neighbors.  They are out on the deck or on the bridge in all weathers and rough seas.  They tumble out of bed at all hours and power up the ferry to get people to the hospital for medical emergencies.

The ferry is our life-line to the mainland.  It takes children to school.  It brings the power trucks over when we have a power failure.  It brings the police over if crimes are committed (though that is rare in this tranquil place).  It brings the recycling and garbage trucks.  And the mail.  And UPS, and FED-EX.  It takes people back and forth to work in Bellingham.

I can’t imagine how we would get on without the ferry.

In September the Lummi tribe announced that the dock lease at Gooseberry Point would end on February 14 (yes, Valentine’s Day) 2010.  They will not renew it, they say.  They want Gooseberry Point for a marina and a wildlife refuge.

The island was stunned.  The county had negotiated a 25 year lease with the tribe a few years ago.  However, the lease needed to be okayed and signed by someone at the Bureau of Indian Affairs in Washington, and the person who was supposed to do that had died before he got around to signing it.  End of lease.

A group of islanders has organized and hired a law firm.  There are people in the group at the extremes of the greater political spectrum, but they are working together on this.  There is a web site.

There is no viable alternative to a ferry dock on Indian land.  The configuration of the coastline is such that any other place would mean a ferry journey of at least an hour.  The Whatcom Chief, fine vessel that it is, could not manage hour long trips in rough seas.

There are recriminations back and forth in the press between the tribe and the island folk.  The tribe says it might go for a 70 month lease if the county spends millions of dollars on reservation roads and sidewalks.  The trouble with that is that the county, in these days of recession, hasn’t got much money to negotiate with.

I don’t think the ferry will stop running.  But I am not sure.  The county is run by an executive who keeps getting reelected (he’s been in office for the entire 15 years I have lived in Whatcom County), but his skills are political, not administrative, and I am told his legal advisor is lazy and marginally competent.  That would seem to be born out be our present predicament.

Islanders are nervously stocking up on staple food and supplies at Costco.  My dentist, who has a house here on the island, says he is looking into buying a landing craft.  People are worried about property values and obtaining mortgages.

There’s a rumor that the tribe will put a chain across the Gooseberry Point dock on Valentine’s Day.

One thing I am sure of: a ferry fare increase.

Posted in In the news, Island life | Tagged , , , | 22 Comments

Hair

My favorite among the long gone Burma Shave ads (a series of highway posts, each with a line of doggerel) was one that read:

In this vale

Of toil and sin

Your head grows bald

But not your chin.

Burma Shave.

I have been thinking about hair lately.  Actually, I think about hair a lot and have done since I was a child.

When I was a child of 8 my mother daily brushed and braided my hair into long pig-tails.  My parents were divorced and I spent the first summer afterward with my father and stepmother.  They lived in rural Virginia, where there was a risk of Rocky Mountain spotted fever which is carried by ticks, so this meant that somebody had to look through my hair every night to make sure there were no ticks hiding there.  My stepmother refused to do this or to have anything to do with my hair, so my father checked for ticks, but he couldn’t help with the braids.

Hairdo at age 8

Hairdo at age 8

When I went back to my mother’s house at the end of the summer the back of my long hair was a large tangled mat.  It took hours to get the tangle combed out.  My mother was mad.

The next summer I decided to get my hair cut.  Again, when I went home my mother was mad.

Hair is one of the defining characteristics of the taxonomic Class Mammalia, the class to which humans belong.  I have often wondered what the evolutionary cause could be for the pattern of human head and body hair.  Since there are sexual differences in hair distribution and patterns change with the hormonal changes that occur at puberty, I suppose the cause is related to mating and reproduction.  There is apparently some innate sexual preference for long head hair and lack of facial hair in the female.

However it came about, we have a lot of head hair and patches of body hair.  Most people, both men and women, lose head hair and gain chin hair with age.  And most people spend a lot of time and money changing hair.

Mostly we like to have head hair and not body hair or face hair.  People do all sorts of funny things with their hair, like coloring it purple and putting goo all over it making it stick up in spikes.  Fashions come and go.  There have been times in history that men have sported long beards, handle-bar mustaches and side burns.  And there was Hitler, whose appearance was defined by the hair on his upper lip.  These days, chin stubble can be fashionable on the he-man type of guy.

In my youth pubic hair was desired.  A few strategic scribbles on a nude drawing could make it look interestingly naked.  In those days pubic hair was shaved before babies were delivered.  I was really glad to have it grow back after my babies.  My brother, who was sent to a “progressive” school because he rebelled against almost everything, was punished at that school by having his pubes shaved.  But today some women, some in my family not to be named, have all body hair, including pubic, waxed.  That has to hurt.

In a recent conversation with a young woman I learned that most modern young people, both men and women, (especially American men and women) remove all body hair, including all pubic hair. I said, “Gosh, when I was young, men thought chest hair was a sign of virility, and they used to leave the upper buttons on their shirts undone to reveal a tuft or two.”

In the same conversation I was told that a famous actress (my informants couldn’t remember which one) had waxed her pubic hair so often that it wouldn’t grow anymore, and for a nude scene in a movie she was making she had to wear a pubic wig, a thing which is called a merkin.

Before I went to New Zealand I had my hair cut.  It had grown quite long and was dangling down my neck, but my British daughter insists that it looks better on the long side, so I didn’t get much cut off.  It looked good when I left the hairdresser.  She uses devious tricks to make it look as if there is more hair than I really have.  She puts “product” on it, and back combs it and poufs it out.  I can’t do that myself, so by the time I got to New Zealand it had flopped.  Badly.  Long wispy thinning gray hair is not beautiful.

New Zealand hairdo

New Zealand hairdo

The first thing I did when I came home was get it cut again.  My hairdresser is my friend.  She used to do my mother’s hair, and she mostly works at an assisted living place in Bellingham.  She is really good with old people, and she loves dogs.  Her corgi comes to work with her, and her clients love to pet it.  We always have a good gossip about life and love while she works on me.

When she cuts my hair she washes it first, then turns me away from the mirror and tells me to put my head down.  She asks me how I want it cut.  This time I told her “about like last time only shorter.”  She went to work.  It seemed like a lot of snipping was going on, and what I could see (without my glasses) of the bits that were falling on the floor there was quite a lot of hair.

She finished, swiveled me around in the chair and gave me my glasses.  I looked at the mirror and gasped.  It was so short.  Very stylish, but shorter than I have had it in years.

New Hairdo

New Hairdo

Jerry and the British daughter both said it looked good, but perhaps they were just being nice.

Next I took the dogs to the doggy hairdresser.  They were shaggy and matted and she had to cut them so close that now we are afraid they will get cold outside.  Everyone says they look like little rat-dogs.  I think they look cute.

My next hair project is to cut Jerry’s hair.  That is a pretty quick job.

Jerry's hairdo

Jerry

Posted in Day to day, Memoir | Tagged , , , | 9 Comments

It was good, but I may never do it again!

Christmas is over.  We have celebrated the new year at 3 different parties.  For one of the best, check out www.artisanwineclub.com/ .  My poor plants are again being watered, and the birds are getting regular replenishment of seed and suet.  I am tapping sentences into the computer.  Life is back to normal.

When I started to write this my family was discussing the making of a “chocolate log”.  This is a thing found in British grocery stores at Christmas time that some of my British family (mostly the children) prefer to the traditional Christmas pudding.  They were trying to come up with an acceptable imitation using Betty Crocker cake mix.  My American granddaughter, Bridget, who is something of a gourmet cook, was going to bake it.  Disputes arose over the inclusion of jam or whipped cream.  There was a general outcry against jam, and one strong objection to whipped cream:  a British granddaughter followed me to my studio where I went looking for a chess set: “She’s going to put whipped cream in it.  I HATE whipped cream.”

Three British and 2 American grandchildren were here.  The rest of my 12 grandchildren celebrated Christmas in other parts of the world.  Daughter 1, Lawyer Daughter, Lawyer Daughter’s husband and Jerry’s son were here as well.  The rest of my children and children-in-law celebrated Christmas in other parts of the world.  I kept counting how many would sit down to Christmas dinner.  I thought 9.  But it might be perhaps 10 or 11.

The rush to Christmas began with the arrival of the British grandchildren.  My actor grandson (British) was not feeling well when he arrived.  As time went by he felt worse.  He had a sore throat.  Then a fever.  And a headache.  And then he became nauseated.  It was a classic case of swine flu.  We postponed a visit from his older brother (who lives in Seattle) with wife and 3 month old baby.  Daughter 1 spent the night putting cold compresses on her son’s brow and dosing him with fever reducers; then she 1 drove down to Mt. Vernon to pick up her 2 daughters who had been staying with their aunt, Lawyer Daughter.

Just as Daughter 1 was leaving Jerry popped his head in the door and said: “All the toilets (there are 5 of them, including duplex and studio) are stopped up.”  This meant a stoppage in the main drain or lower.  “Don’t run any water or use any drain,” he said. He spent most of the day crawling around under the house while I wrapped presents above.  I felt calm and confident.  The day we were married he had said to me: “You’ll never have to call a plumber again.”  After a while I noticed that he was digging up the patio pavers over the opening to the septic tank.

I went out and watched as he lifted the cover from the opening to the septic tank.

“Yuck,” I said, “Is it supposed to look like that?”

“Just about,” he replied, and then pointed to the input pipe.  There was a cylindrical thing that looked a lot like a roll of dirty toilet paper.  He poked it with a hoe to dislodge it, and the pipe spurted into the tank.

“Go inside and flush the toilet in the new bathroom,” he commanded.  Then he told me to flush the other toilets at intervals.  I did, and went back out.  “It’s okay,” he said, “here come a lot of turds.”

A short time later Daughter 1 arrived with the 2 granddaughters.

The elder was a red-head the last time I saw her and the younger was blond.  Now the red-head is blond and the blond is a dark brunette. Both are gorgeous, hair color notwithstanding.

Actor grandson continued feverish, but at least we could flush.

The next day Jerry and I took the ferry and went to town to shop for Christmas dinner and a few last-minute presents.  Jerry hates to shop, so I suggested that he drop me at Macy’s while he went to Home Depot.

I said, “Pick me up at this door in 45 minutes.”

Macy’s was almost deserted and I quickly bought 4 daughter presents and made it to the door on time.  Fifteen minutes later I heard a lot of police and ambulance sirens in the distance and Jerry was nowhere in sight.  He had forgotten his cell phone but it isn’t much use anyhow, since he can’t hear it ring.  After a while I called Daughter 1 at home with her feverish son.  “Have you heard anything from Jerry?” I asked.  No was the answer.  Another 15 minutes passed.   I began to imagine a heart attack, or perhaps an automobile accident.  I felt deserted and helpless.  I called Daughter 1 again and asked her what I should do.  She said, “Wait a bit longer, and if he doesn’t come I’ll come in to get you.”

It took another half hour for him to realize that he had been waiting for me at the wrong door.

Next we went to Costco to pick up prescriptions and stock up on food.  There was a long wait at the pharmacy.  The store was packed with people.  I chatted with an island neighbor, Dave Harmony, who was also waiting for pills.  I commented that there were no crowds at Macy’s.  He said he had been in Target and it was mobbed.  We agreed that people were shopping the discount stores.

Later I told my family that there were good buys to be had in Macy’s.

Jerry frowned, “It has too many doors,” he said.

Actor son recovered and his brother came from Seattle with wife and baby son on the 23rd.  We had a pre-Christmas dinner with them.  Something in the unusual bustle scared the normally peaceful baby, and he set to screaming in a way that scared his parents.  When that crisis passed we had a fine meal of roast lamb.  We were 9 at the table that night.

On Christmas eve everyone, except Jerry, Jerry’s son and me, went to church in Bellingham.  Most of those who went are not believers, but Lawyer daughter is a devout Catholic and she was the mover of the expedition.  The others enjoy the excitement and pageantry of the Christmas service.  In order for all 7 of them to go in one car they put the seats in our van.  Jerry supervised the installation of the seats, despite the fact that he had enjoyed quite a lot of wine.  He got a bit muddled and thought they were all going home.  After they drove off he said to me, “Why did they go in the van and leave all these cars here?  Won’t they need their cars?”

On Christmas morning the presents of 3 families were under the tree.  They made a sort of mountain.  It took about 4 hours to get them all opened, one by one.

We ended up with 13 for Christmas dinner.  There were 11 family and 2 guests.  I got stressed with the preparations; dinner was an hour late on the table.  But it was good.  Roast beef is our family tradition.  I made Yorkshire pudding, as I had done for the roast lamb dinner.  My vegetarian granddaughter loves Yorkshire pudding, so we make 2 versions, one with meat drippings, and one with olive oil.  Both are good.

I realized that our vegetarian was disappointed not to have the nut roast I had promised to make.  I had assembled the ingredients but ran out of time.  Actor grandson, with the help of his mother, pitched in and put together the nut roast for his sister.  It turned out to be really good.

The next day, Boxing Day to the Brits, Daughter 1 made pizza entirely from scratch, for everyone’s special taste.

The final feast of the holidays came on the 2 nd of January.  The Seattle group came; this time with baby’s other grandfather, a pleasant, friendly man from Argentina who spoke no English.  Lawyer Daughter’s 18 year old son was with us for the first time, since he had spent Christmas with his father in Los Angeles.  The baby was the center of attention.  He smiled and played and never cried.

We were 4 generations.  We were all together with love and stress.  There were little vexations.  There were some hurt feelings and some tears.  There was a lot to laugh about and a lot to admire.  I was tired, tired, tired by the time the new year came and went.

Jerry and I had the perspective of age.  We could comprehend the stages of life we were watching, because once we had been there.  There a the baby and young parents; mothers of middle years, soon to have empty nests; young adults – fledglings leaving the nests and, yes, teen-agers from 12 to 18.  Would I like to be young again?  Yes, if I had the vigor and possibilities of youth.  But I wish, as well, to have the smidgen of wisdom that I have acquired over the years.

“If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.”

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Back to winter

Tomorrow I fly home: from the southern hemisphere to the northern hemisphere, from summer to winter.

I am leaving the cousin I love and a country I love.  I‘ll miss the birdsongs, the flowers, the exotic trees and ferns, the sunshine and the long white clouds.  Aoteoroa: the Maori name for their homeland.  Land of the long white cloud.

Jerry and I spent 4 days in Coromandel.  That’s a peninsula on the north east coast of the North Island.  We had a motel that was a bit more than 2 kilometers from town, so we did a lot of walking.  Even though it pelted rain most of the time we were there, we walked to town and back at least once every day.

We visited a gold mine run by a talkative geologist who told us a lot, very fast, about the geology of New Zealand.  He demonstrated his rock crusher for us and for a bus load of tourists (mostly Brits).  The rock crusher didn’t work and he talked a lot more, very fast.  Finally, one of the English gentlemen leaned over and said to me, “I wish he’d shut up and get on with it.”  The “demonstration” cost $10 for each person.

Jerry was interested in the gold mining, since he had mined gold in Alaska.   There was a major gold rush in the Coromandel just as the California gold rush was subsiding.  Jerry asked our talkative geologist where the tailings are, since the mines in this region are all underground.  Talkative geologist said they had all been dumped in the harbor, and he advocates dredging the harbor, since modern chemical methods of mining can extract a lot more gold than the old methods.  He is having a fierce battle with the Greens over this proposal.

When we came back to Jocelyn and Albert’s house in Pukekohe we took them out to dinner, and I finally and unexpectedly got a really good meal in a restaurant in New Zealand.  We went to a Chinese buffet.  There was a wide array of well cooked Chinese dishes and western dishes, including some fresh oysters on the half shell.

Today my last outing will be with Jocelyn to a luncheon with her Mah Jongg group.  Some of these ladies I have met on other visits when I watched them play Mah Jongg.

I am thinking about Christmas and all the rush and activity.  Christmas preparations here in New Zealand are well underway, and seem incongruous in this warm sunny land.  People sing all the carols and songs about winter and cold and snow and never seem to notice that they don’t fit.

I am bracing myself for winter.

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I am in New Zealand, but where is my head?

I think of my head as having little squares inside.  One square is in the present, here in New Zealand, looking around at the sights: flowers, ferns, tree ferns, undulating green hills, beaches and bays.  The country is largely agricultural, with sheep, cattle, farmed deer, and sometimes more exotic animals like alpacas and fancy goats.  I have not seen ostriches on this trip, but my cousin David used to have an ostrich farm here and I once ate ostrich steak at a restaurant in Queenstown.  It was delicious. As I look out of the motel window where I now sit I can see a quiet bay.  The tide is out revealing long beds of farmed oysters.

There are still places, even on the North Island, where native bush grows and blankets the hills.  When the first Europeans came here in around 1830 they began to cut down the majestic forests of giant kauri trees.  Now almost all of the kauris are gone and the remaining ones are strictly protected.  The forests are full of tree ferns and ferns carpet the forest floor.  There is a move afoot to change the New Zealand flag from the Union Jack with the Southern Cross to a white fern on a black field.

New Zealand has no native mammals.  Of course, many have been introduced: rabbits, deer, rats and mice, and most significantly, Australian possums.  These don’t look at all like the possums of the US.  They have lovely soft fur and are sort of cute.  But they do terrible damage, eating the young trees and plants.  They also chew on electric wires and interrupt power.  There are efforts to control them all over the country, and every telephone poll has a metal band around it to keep possums from climbing.  That’s ironic, since they are protected in Australia.

Besides thinking about what I see as a tourist, I have been trying to understand a little of New Zealand politics.  This is not a simple matter.  For one thing, the way they choose their parliament is peculiar.  Each person has two votes, one for the candidate they want and another for the party they like.  These two things don’t have to match.  You can vote for a candidate of one party, and then turn around and vote for the opposition party.  Then the votes are apportioned in some kind of mysterious formula.  There are 7 political parties and 122 members of parliament.  The Maori Party is a powerful minority party.  A lot of formerly private land has been returned to Maori ownership

The conservative National Party is in power now.  It advocates things like a flat tax, aid to private schools, cuts in all other social spending, mining on government land, a balanced budget.  Some of these things are incompatible with reality – for instance, they can’t both balance the budget and lower taxes even if they eliminate social spending.  There is already a big deficit.  So they talk a lot, and most of the news on New Zealand TV is about sports and celebrities.  Tiger Woods’ marital difficulties have been extensively covered.

My mother was a New Zealander, and she grew up here, so one compartment in my head thinks about what it was like here when she was young.  Her sister Pat is still alive, and my cousin Jocelyn, her husband Albert, Jerry and I visited Pat.  We had dinner together with her and her son (my cousin), Michael and his wife, Maris.  The restaurant was expensive and the food was terrible.  Little black bugs bit me as I ate and days later I am still scratching.  A good meal in a restaurant in New Zealand is hard to come by.

The next night Pat visited with Joc and Albert and Jerry and me at our motel.  Most of the middle price motels in New Zealand have cooking facilities, and for Pat’s visit I cooked a good dinner of pork shoulder and roasted vegetables.  This is a very standard New Zealand meal.  We talked and laughed about the past.

I brought the book Annals of the Former World by John McPhee with us to read to Jerry at bedtime.  It is a very thick tome about geology.  A compartment of my head is in the realm of rocks and continental drift, plate tectonics, volcanoes (New Zealand has a lot of them)  and time periods so vast that there is no way to comprehend them.  Jerry and I walk, and as we walk we talk about how New Zealand formed, and what kinds of rocks and soil we are looking at.

After geology has had its magically soothing effect on Jerry and he begins to snore gently, I pick up the other book I am reading, and I am transported into nineteenth century England.  I brought Trollope’s Doctor Thorne with me.  I have read it before, but I have reached such an age that I have forgotten a lot of what I once read and so have the pleasure of reading it again.

Trollop invented a place, Barsetshire, and all its surroundings and inhabitants, and I think to him it became as real as the place he lived.  It is so to me as a reader.  I think there is a modern equivalent in the long lasting radio soap opera, The Archers, which most Brits follow.  The Archers is set in the fictional village, Ambridge.

Doctor Thorne is about Dr. Thorne’s niece, a young woman who was born out of wedlock. She is courted by the son of the local squire.  She is penniless.  The young squire’s mother is the daughter of an earl and regards “birth” and noble blood as the most important thing in life, second only to money.  She requires her son to “marry money”, but he persists in courting Mary, the penniless bastard.   When Mary turns out to be the heir to a huge fortune, she is instantly forgiven for being of low birth, and all ends happily.

Trollope is critical of the notions of noble birth, aristocracy, wealth, and the idea that to have to work for a living at a profession is “low”.  Yet all his characters believe that these ideas have legitimacy, at least to some extent.  If a man must earn a living, it is best to be a clergyman, hire a curate to do the work, and as much as possible live the life of the idle rich.

For a while I was so absorbed in reading this book that I found it a stretch to switch back to twenty-first century New Zealand.  I began to neglect my husband and family.

Yet another place my head traveled to was my own past.  About a month ago I mentioned in a post that I had written to the daughter of an old friend, long lost.  The daughter gave me her mother’s email and I wrote to her.  I was disappointed to have had no reply.  Last week, when I had an opportunity to check my email, I found another email from the daughter, Janna.  She said, “I am sitting with Helen now, and she is remembering you.  She wants to know where you are living now.”   Helen is six years older than I, so she must be 83.  Janna went on to say that her parents had been divorced years ago, and that her father had died in 1990 of Parkinson’s.

I remembered them as a wholly devoted couple.  Ed was a friend as well as Helen, and it took some thinking to absorb the fact of their divorce and his death, even though those things happened a long time ago.

Here I am, on the third of December 2009, in Coromandel, New Zealand.  My mind wanders from here to England in the Victorian era, to New Zealand at the beginning of the last century, to vast eons in the earth’s past, to Washington, D. C. in the middle of the twentieth century.

It’s astonishing what you can do with your head.

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Scraps of New Zealand

We arrived in New Zealand about 2 weeks ago.  The plane touched down just before 7 in the morning.  We spent the first day getting over the flight.  My cousin Jocelyn and her husband Albert picked us up and took us to their comfortable house in Pukekohe, a farm town just south of Auckland.

Albert was a dairy farmer, and they used to live in the country.  They gave up a house on a hill and cows in fields for town life with modern conveniences.  Jocelyn says she likes to see people walking past.  When they lived on the farm we watched trains rumble through fields below the house and saw the sun set over Auckland.  I enjoyed walking on the country roads.

Jerry and I walked the evening we arrived at the new house.  Walking is helpful for jet lag.  First we walked through a posh, expensive gated community with million dollar houses, then along a much older street with little ginger bread trimmed houses, their gardens planted with exotic tropical plants that cohabit with fragrant English roses.  Roses were everywhere.  Calla lilies and blue agapantha grow wild.  We turned up the road to Pukekohe Hill.  After a bit of climbing there were chickens in the yards, and a little further up sheep grazed.  The road looks over a green valley of patch work squares planted in rows of onions, beets, and other vegetables.   Birds sang.

The next day we took the train to Paraparaumu, a suburb of Wellington where the son of my mother’s best college friend lives.  She was called Twinx (her real name was Anne), and mother kept up with Twinx until she died, then kept up with her son, Hugh.

The train trip took all day, and went through a lot of beautiful country.  I spent the day trying to learn to use my new toy, a video camera.  It is a lot of fun, but I have yet to become proficient.

Hugh always has things to show visitors, and he plans by carefully analyzing the interests of his guests.  Over the years he has taken me to wonderful entertainments.  He took us to a bird sanctuary in Karori , a Wellington suburb where I went to school when I was 14.  I took a lot of fine videos of birds.  There is a New Zealand bird called the Tui, which has a wonderful complicated clear melodic song.  It is black with a tuft of white fluffy feathers on its throat, and for that reason is sometimes called the parson bird.  I have some pictures of it, but I am not able to post them until I get home.

Next we went to an art gallery in Wellington.  There we saw an exhibit of work by a Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama , which was great fun.  It was rather like an amusement park fun house for intellectuals.  There were a number of rooms, each its own installation of inflated shapes and brightly colored spots and drawings.  There were two rooms that were enclosed with mirrors and lights, one bright, one dark, where the viewer stands in a universe of lights and reflections of himself to infinity.

The day we went to the exhibit was a free day, so there were lots of parents with children.  The children enjoyed themselves.  Jerry enjoyed himself.  I loved it.

Hugh Young is 10 years younger then I, but he is at last retired.  His partner, Tim, still works and Hugh busies himself with his web sites.  He is a crusader against male (and female) circumcision.  His other sites are for marketing New Zealand theme novelties that he designs himself.

I wrote the above a week ago, but never finished it or posted it.  I was going to include pictures, possibly movies.  But events began to accumulate and there were many demands on our time.  Today is a rainy day in Coromandel.  I have a comfortable motel and internet.  Jerry is dozing.  I am writing a new post.  In the meantime, here’s a tidbit.

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Life marches on

The bathroom is finished (well almost finished).

New bathroom shower

New bathroom shower

It is a truly comfortable and beautiful room, and Jerry and I made it ourselves.

New Bathroom bath side

New Bathroom bath side

The wood stove is installed (almost installed).

New wood burning stove

New wood burning stove

In a few minutes I will cut Jerry’s hair.  Then I will have lunch with daughter 1 at the Lummi Island Civic Club (all ladies).  This afternoon, after the luncheon, I will finish packing and then cook dinner.

What I am taking

What I am taking

Next I will play Mah Jongg with our island group.  Tomorrow morning all three of us (Jerry, me, daughter 1) will go to the doctor to have Jerry’s stitches out (he had some minor skin cancers removed).  Then we will go to Costco to buy a video camera.  Then daughter 1 will drop us at the airport where we will catch a bus for Vancouver where we will board a plane headed for New Zealand.  We will lose the 14th of November.  On Sunday morning we will arrive in Auckland at 6 AM.

I will take my laptop with me, and I hope to be able to post sometimes in New Zealand.  Perhaps I will learn to post videos.

I’ll be thinking of you all.

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Painting and dreaming and reading and thinking

For the past month I have been taking a painting class.  I don’t think of myself as a painter.  I went to art school when I was 50, and I majored in printmaking.

I love printmaking.  I love the process.  I love carving the image into wood or linoleum, or scratching it into the wax of an etching plate or scratching it directly into the copper itself.  Sometimes I love the accidental results –  unintended consequences of transferring ink from plate to paper.  Printmaking is full of surprises and delights.

But painting is fun too, and it involves a lot less paraphernalia.  It’s highly portable, and can be done in a corner if necessary.  For many months now my studio has been occupied either as storage or as a place to set up saws and sawhorses for construction.

My painting class at the local community college consists of 9 ladies, mostly of a certain age, and one old guy.   The teacher, Lorna Libert, is great.  She is a free spirit, spontaneous, cheerful, friendly, intelligent and pretty.  I love her work.

It is bold and funny and full of life and drama.  It is color and light and energy and thick luscious paint.  I wish I could own one of her paintings but they cost a lot.  Perhaps one day I will afford a small one.  Most of them are quite large. Spend some time looking at her work at http://www.lornalibert.com/

Lorna begins each class with a short demonstration, and I always learn something – either something new or something I had forgotten and need to be reminded of.  I want to learn to stop painting little timid paintings and paint big bold ones like Lorna.

A couple of weeks ago she was explaining how to get distance in one’s paintings.  In her usual energetic, bubbly way she was demonstrating starting a painting of Mt. Baker, which is a good distance away.  She flourished the brush, tossed her long blond hair out of her face, and giggled a bit as she said, “Okay, here’s Mt. Baker.”

Then she stopped, and said, “Oh, I just remembered! I dreamt about Mt. Baker last night.  You know how you dream and forget, and all of a sudden the dream comes back to you?  Well, I dreamed that Mt. Baker blew up!  I was painting it with a group of other people, and all of a sudden, it blew up.  It was gone, just gone.”  She stopped, and we were all silent and surprised.

Then I asked, “Were you sad that it was gone?”

“Yes,” she said, after thinking a minute, “I was very sad.  I thought, now we won’t have Mt. Baker to paint anymore.”

Once, long ago, I dreamt that the moon blew up.  I had recently separated from my second husband, a man I loved despite his many egregious faults.  I dreamt I was looking at a bright full moon, high in the sky, and suddenly it blew up.  It vanished.  The sky was empty.  In my dream I was overcome with an agonizing feeling of loss.  Never to see the moon again seemed unbearably painful.

As I painted that day in class I thought about the pattern of our dreams.  I suppose that the dream world, like the waking world, is specific to the species, and for humans at least, specific to time and place.  My world is very different form the world of a nineteenth century desert nomad.  But the world of a field mouse or a whale is one I can hardly begin to imagine. Do other animals dream?  Is their world incorporated into their dreams as ours is?

If Jerry and I wake up early we often turn on the radio news.  For both of us this can mean an extra hour of sleep, because the news is as good as a sleeping potion.  We are quickly off to the land of dreams, dreams that weave in jumbled, distorted news stories.   I can trace daytime happenings or troubles in fantastic nighttime dream narratives.

Other dreams, though, could have a more ancient or primeval origin.  There might be some primitive pattern of brain work that conjures dreams of cataclysmic explosions.  I am reading Annals of the Former World by John McPhee.  He explains the origin of rocks and mountains with a history of life embedded in them.  It is a story of long periods of calm slow change in the earth’s surface punctuated by great catastrophes and sudden upheavals.  Life flourishes and proliferates and then is lost in terrible disasters that obliterate up to 90 percent of all the species existing at the time.

I wonder whether DNA could code some primordial record of its own history.  Do some of our dreams remind us of the long, sometimes attenuated but never broken chain of life? Or is this all nonsense?

I go back to painting the Lummi Island church.  Within the church are other stories of origins.

I think the painting needs something in the foreground.  I remember that there used to be a belligerent pheasant patrolling the road that passes the church.  He attacked everyone who walked by, I suppose to protect his hen and nest which must have been in the vicinity.  One day a dog ate him.  Only feathers and bones remained for a while.  I missed the pheasant.  It was a lot less exciting to walk past the church when he was gone.

I thought the attack pheasant would do well in the foreground of my painting, so I put him there.

And I thought the explosion dreams must be about loss.  Had Lorna lost a dog she loved?  Had she sold a favorite painting?

My painting looks kind of like a dream.  Perhaps it will still exist when I am gone.  Perhaps a descendent of mine who isn’t yet born will say to someone else who will exist then, “My great, great grandmother painted that old church. I wonder why she put a pheasant in the picture.”

The Lummi Island Church

The Lummi Island Church

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